balcony blight has spread to Jægersborggade

With Coronavirus lockdown restrictions, it has been many months since I have been up to Jægersborggade but Saturday was sunny, and I needed some exercise, so I walked up to the lakes and then on along Nørrebrogade and through Assistens Kirkegård.

As soon as I got into Jægersborggade, opposite the north gate of the cemetery, I could see that construction work had started to add balconies to the front of several of the west-facing buildings.

This whole business of retrofitting older apartment buildings with new balconies has become a serious problem in the city.

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Bygningspræmiering / Copenhagen Building Awards 2021

Bygningspræmiering -The Copenhagen Building Award - was established in 1903 and, each year, is granted to buildings that have made an outstanding contributed to the 'physical framework' of the city and reflect the importance of good architecture in the life of the city.

It is important that these buildings reflect the special character of of the city and contribute to the quality of its built environment.

For the building awards there are four categories:

A: nybyggeri / new building
B: omdannelse / restoration
C: renovation of apartments in a building that had another purpose
D: bymiljø / urban environment

For 2021, the Committee assessing the award: 

Culture and Leisure Committee
Nicolai Bo Andersen and Rosa Siri Lund, experts appointed by the Academic Architects' Association
Lisa Sørensen, expert appointed by IDA / Ingeniørforeningen Danmark
Camilla van Deurs, City Architect, Technical and Environmental Administration
Mette Haugaard Jeppesen, architect, Technical and Environmental Administration

Here are the buildings and engineering projects that have been short listed for the award in 2021 and they show just how diverse the built environment of the city is and all would be more than worthy winners.

Until 20 April, the public can vote for a public winner through the web site of the City Kommune and the overall winners of Building Awards will be announced on 27 April 2021 

The Award-Winning City, Hans Helge Madsen and Otto Käszner
The Danish Architectural Press 2003

Bygningspræmiering
the public vote

 

Amager Bakke, Vindmøllevej 6, 2300 København S
architect: BIG - Bjarke Ingels Group
engineers: MOE

category: nybyggeri / new building

 

 

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Charlottetårnet / The Charlotte Tower, Hjørringgade 35, 2100 København Ø
architect: Lundgaard & Tranberg Arkitekter A/S
engineers: COWI A/S

category: nybyggeri / new building

 

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Cityringen / Metro Inner Ring
architects: Arup
engineers: COWI Systra

category: nybyggeri / new building and bymiljø / urban environment

 

 

 

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Enghaveparken - Klimapark / Climate Park, Enghaveparken, 1761 København V
architects: TREDJE NATUR and Platant
engineer: COWI

category: bymiljø / urban environment


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Frihedsmuseet / The Freedom Museum, Churchillparken 6, 2100 København Ø
architects: Lundgaard & Tranberg Arkitekter
engineers: EKJ Rådgivende Ingeniører A/S, DEM Dansk and Energi Management A/S

category: nybyggeri / new building


Københavns Museum / Copenhagen Museum, Stormgade 18, 1555 København V 
architects:  Rørbæk og Møller Arkitekter A/S, LETH & GORI. Udstillingsarkitekt / exhibition architects: JAC studios
engineer: Hundsbæk & Henriksen A/S

category: omdannelse / restoration


Klostergårdens plejehjem og Seniorbofællesskabet Sankt Joseph /
The Cloister nursing home and the Seniour Community of Sankt Joseph,
Strandvejen 91, 2100 København Ø
architects: RUBOW arkitekter A/S
engineer: Sweco Danmark A/S

category: omdannelse / restoration








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Lille Langebro / Little Langebro, Vestervoldgade Langebrogade, København K
architects: Wilkinson Eyre Architects
engineer: Buro Happold Engineering

category: nybyggeri / new building

 

 

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Nørrebro Bibliotek / Nørrebro Library, Nørrebrogade 208, 2200 København N
architects: Keingart Space_Activators
engineer: Alfa Ingeniører A/S (For Ason Entreprenører)

category: omdannelse / restoration


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image created using Google Earth

Træhus i Sydhavnen / Wooden House in Sydhavnen, HF Havebyen Mozart 74, 2450 København SV
architects: Peter Kjær
engineer: Ole Vanggaard, Tommi Haferbier

category:  nybyggeri / new building

 

money made available to restore the Soup Tureen

The city has just now announced that a block of money has been made available for a number of restoration projects and for work to improve a number of streets or public areas.

One of the projects will be the restoration of the pavilion on the major road interchange north of the lakes at Trianglen.

Dating from 1907, the building was designed by PV Jensen-Klint and was waiting rooms and public toilets where several major tram routes terminated or crossed.

The copper roof, with it’s distinct and striking shape, soon earned the building the nickname of Super Terrin or Terrinen although it was also known as Bien … the bee …. from the name of a kiosk here at one time.

Bien at Trianglen
Trianglen

Svanemølleværket is to be a new museum of technology

It has been confirmed that Svanemølleværket power station will be decommissioned by 2023.

After the building is passed to the control of By&Havn - the port authority of Copenhagen - it will be converted to be a new museum of technology with the collections of Danmarks Tekniske Museum in Helsingør moved here to the old works. Dorte Mandrup has been appointed architect for the project.

This was announced provisionally in February 2019 but the final decision has been delayed by the pandemic.

Swan Mill Works was the last major design by the architect Louis Hygom (1879-1950). Work began in 1947 and the massive building was completed in 1953. The power station is constructed in reinforced concrete but is faced with brick.

Originally the power station was coal fired but in 1985 it was converted to gas to produce area heating from its six boilers and five turbines. 

The works is dramatic and monumental in scale. Hygom, who also designed later parts of HC Ørestedsværket - the power station at the south end of the harbour - was an architect of the  Neoclassist school in the early decades of the 20th century and the design is not only rational and functional but it has striking and even beautiful proportions.

The challenge in this next stage will be to keep to a minimum changes to the fenestration and restrict the insertion of new windows and doors.

HC Ørestedsværket

Danmarks Tekniske Museum
Dorte Mandrup

 
 
 

Copenhagen - capital of architecture

 

Whenever possible, I walk and it’s not often that I go out without a camera. It’s possible that I have walked past some of these buildings hundreds of times but the light changes through the day and over the seasons and there is always something new to see or something to understand or to photograph in a different way or from a different angle because it is seen in a different context.

Copenhagen is an amazing city - a rich and diverse built environment that is to be UNESCO Capital of Architecture in 2023.

select any image to open in a full-screen slide show

 

Copenhagen - Capital of Architecture

 

I have to admit that I probably spend too much time talking about planning in the city and too much time getting angry about bad buildings or inappropriate developments so this is a way to reconnect … a way to celebrate the amazing quality and the amazing variety of the buildings in the city - old and modern - and to encourage people to look around and to look up because this is a city that has amazing buildings of all shapes and materials and forms and styles.

select any image to open in a full-screen slide show

 

&Tradition at Lindencrones Palæ for 3daysofdesign

Lindencrones Palæ was completed in 1753 for Christian Lintrup with the initial design by Nicholai Eigtved the architect who was responsible for the plan of Frederiksstaden and for many of the major buildings in this part of the city. Frederiksstaden was built outside the old east gate of the old city from the 1680s onwards. Much of the interior of Lindencrones Palæ and much of the arrangement of the plan would have been determined by the master builder Christian Conradi.

With its main façade towards Bredgade, with its relatively narrow pavement and heavy traffic and with only an end elevation to Sankt Annæ Plads, a lot of people must walk past the building without fully appreciating the size and the grand design of the Palæ. From 1850, it was the British Embassy but the British sold the building and moved out to Østerbro in 1979. In 2003, the house was purchased by Troels Holch Povlsen - founder of Best Seller - and underwent a major restoration that was completed in 2006.

The splendid main staircase is reached by a short flight of steps up from the arched passageway that runs through between Bredgade and the courtyard and that stair takes the visitor up to a suite of reception rooms that run right across the main floor level with what must have been one of the largest drawing rooms in the city.

Lindencrones Palæ is used as an important venue for 3daysofdesign and this year the main rooms were taken over by the design company &Tradition in partnership with the auction house Bruun Rasmussen the theme "Home of a Collector" showed current pieces from the company alongside classic historic designs.

Many good Danish interiors mix together antique furniture - often pieces inherited from the family - with classic designs from the mid and late 20th century along with the most modern of current designs. Here, that was shown on a grand scale. It is often easier to talk about Danish taste or the Scandinavian qualities of interiors rather than style as such because furniture of different periods are so often mixed together.

Bruun Rasmussen
&Tradition

 

the facade of Lindencrones Palæ to Bredgade

 

Københavns Kulturkvarter / Copenhagen Cultural District

Københavns Museum / Museum of Copenhagen, Stormgade

Gammel Strand

 

The idea of grouping together major monuments and museums and galleries in the historic centre of Copenhagen to promote them as a Kulturkvarter or Cultural District appears to have been given a reboot.

Simple and well-designed information panels have been set up near 19 of the buildings where you can pick up a leaflet with a map that also has short descriptions of each building or cultural institution in Danish and English. All are within a 10 minute walk and the guide does not suggest a proscribed route so it is a good way to explore but to let yourself be diverted or distracted as you walk in the area between the harbour and the west end of the old city and covering the whole of the area of the old castle - now the palace and government buildings of Christiansborg.

There are links to the Instagram and Facebook pages of the Kvarter / Cultural District and the web address of each destination is also given so the guide can simply be the entry point for using a mobile phone for more information about opening times and so on.

Københavns Kulturkvarter
Kulturkvarter on Instagram
Kulturkvarter on Facebook

 

Det skjulte Slotsholmen / The hidden Slotsholmen

Rigsdagsgården, Christiansborg, København

An exhibition in the great courtyard in front of the entrance to the parliament building. 

Slotsholm is a large and almost square island with canals on three side and the harbour on the fourth side. The natural island was much smaller than the present extent of Slotsholm and was the site of an early-medieval castle of which parts remain below the present parliament building. The castle was extended and the island enlarged and became the main royal palace in the city. There were royal stables here and a church and a complex development of buildings dating back to the early 17th century that housed government officials and administrative buildings and store rooms for the state … so, for instance, the 17th-century arsenal for the navy. After a major fire in the late 18th-century the royal family decamped to Amalienborg and decided to remain there and, although the large royal palace was rebuilt, it became the home of the Danish parliament although the great State Apartments at Christiansborg are still used for major royal events.

The photographs and text in the exhibition look at not just the main buildings of the first great royal palace and parliament on the island but includes fascinating facts and social and political history that reveals much about how the Danish monarchy and democratic government in Denmark has evolved.

Access to the exhibition is at any time as the courtyard and the route through Christiansborg is open to all pedestrians and cyclists.

There are tours of Slotsholmen with guides from Teatermuseet i Hofteatret / the Theatre Museum and the Court Theatre.

the exhibition and tours continue until 6 December 2020

Det skjulte Slotsholmen
tours and guides

COBE on Frederiksberg Allé

select any image to open as sllde show

 
 

This new apartment building on Frederiksberg Allé - designed by COBE and built over a new metro station - sets a new standard for building in the city and deserves to win the Arne prize next year.

OK … it’s the slab and clad building method I rant about and rail against but that is when it is done badly with lazy or boring or cavalier design. This building shows exactly what can be done to produce an elegant and clever building by using the free tools any architect has of understanding and appreciating the use of proportion, logic, composition of masses, texture, colour tone and, with COBE, an astute knowledge of Copenhagen building traditions and an empathy with the city and its streetscapes.

The site is a square plot approximately 35 metres wide and 35 metres deep that was cleared for construction work on the new metro line and for an important new metro station here at the centre of the Allé. There was a large villa here that broke or weakened the street line so this project has been an opportunity to establish a clear and well defined street frontage but also with a sense of a new space created at the cross roads by stepping back to the corner in stages along both Frederiksberg Allé and on Platanvej - the side street.

Metro trains now run under the cross roads at an angle and, as the general principal for the metro is that both platforms and the ticket halls and entrance stairs all work in line with the train tracks, that set the angle of the lift tower to the platforms and dictated that the main entrance to the metro should be across the corner and not from either the main street or the side road. Of course the lifts and staircases could have been buried into the building, disguising or ignoring that diagonal angle, but that would not have been a challenge and much of the very best architecture is good because it works with and overcomes the problems of a specific site.

It is also important that the architects of the new building understand the main vocabulary or language of the buildings along the street …. that is, substantial apartment buildings of a high quality with angle turrets at road intersections and the use of decoration to indicate individuality or difference and status. Here the architects from COBE have resisted any temptation to produce a pastiche with domes or flourishes but use strong composition by building up elements to a corner tower and by doing that well they actually get away with producing a building that is much taller and much more solid than anything that might otherwise have been rejected by the planning authority. Given the importance of this historic street and given the potential criticism that could have landed on the desks of politicians from the wealthy and articulate people who live in the expensive homes in this neighbourhood, it had to be right.

The panels of pale brick have either areas of raised header bricks or raised courses of bricks for texture and plain sunk panels on some areas show that actually it does not need much projection or recession to throw a little shadow across the facade for definition. Many of the new buildings in the city are too flat - with no use of recession or projection - even by a slight amount - to give the facade some life.

Here, bricks are set horizontally, in the conventional way on walls where headers are pulled forward, producing a darker surface with the same colour of brick but set vertically and with much longer bricks than is normal on the sections of wall on the corner tower to produce a much softer tone that gives the wall a sheen that is almost like a textile. The windows have a projecting frame or simple architrave of headers and window frames are thin and set back but produce what looks almost like a graphic line to define the openings. There is a clever use of blind panels within the brick frames of the windows above the metro entrance to disguise a high lost area or service mezzanine inside. All this, and the good proportions of the whole and the parts, is an aspect of the design that any good 18th-century architect would understand and respect.

I’m still not convinced that the lack of any definition below the brick but above the wide openings at the corner does not look slightly weak. Steel and concrete can span any space like this without obvious support on the material of the wall face - structural features such as lintels or arches - but without them a wall hanging above a void looks insubstantial - as if it could all slide down - but here it does work because looking at the building, from the angle, it is rather like a chest of drawers with the drawers half pulled out and the corner lifted up. And then the glass tower of the metro lift slides forward under the whole lot like an actress taking the applause, slipping under the curtain of the proscenium arch. Prose too florid? Ok but it does reflect the drama of the building but drama done with an almost minimalist restraint. If this does not win an award for being the best new building in the city it certainly deserves an award for being the classiest.

To simplify what is a complicated plan, essentially, there are three parts to the building with that rectangular block cutting in from the corner and containing the metro station. On either side is a high open space rising through two floors, basically triangular and filling out the space of the plot on either side of that metro rectangle. On the initial plans there were small units on either side to create a food court with tables around the escalators that drop down to the metro platforms but in the end there are two larger restaurants and what is now a florist. On a mezzanine level are two small halls and facilities - the kulturhus - that can be rented for local events.

Above, and almost self contained, are 30 homes arranged in a squat L shape around an open courtyard that is a garden high above the street. From the courtyard itself there is access to six town houses each on two floors, with all but the corner house with dual aspects to the courtyard and to Frederiksberg Allé and then, piled on top, is another block pf six town houses above that and with roof terraces. On the west arm of the L there are relatively narrow studio flats, again with dual aspect but to the courtyard and to Platanvej - across the west side of the plot.

Upper levels of the housing are reached by open lift and stair towers with black metal framework and railings a little too much like cages. Lower apartments have entrance doors from the courtyard and the upper apartments from open external galleries … not the most common form of apartment building in the city where normally, in larger buildings, there will be a series of separate entrances along a front with separate staircases and lifts at each door and single apartments on either side at each level. Here, with the wide entrance to the metro across the corner and the commercial area on the ground floor, that was not an option.

On the courtyard side, the restrained style of the brickwork of the street frontages is abandoned for large panels of wood facing but with the grey brick used for a framing. Windows on the courtyard side are arranged with an unnecessary asymmetry and the staircases and balconies, with their black railings, begin to look a bit too much like an Escher drawing. What is good is that upper levels of the building not only step up to the corner so building up visually to the corner turret with its penthouse apartment, but they also step in or back at upper levels to disguise the height of the building when seen from street level and that also means that upper access galleries, from the lifts to the separate houses at the upper level, do not project but are on the roofs of deeper houses below and there are terraces or roof gardens on the set back so, for once, this is a major apartment block with no projecting balconies.

Frederiksberg mad-&kulturhus
COBE

 

wasted opportunities?

OK …. just to get shot of some of the negative posts in my to-do tray.

This is Kalvebod Brygge.

What a waste of an amazing frontage to the harbour. The quay faces south-east so is bathed in light reflected off the water so, in theory, it’s the sort of site any developer should be prepared to die for.

Some of the buildings are good and would grace any ordinary downtown office area but as part of a large group here they are more than uninspiring. To be fair, there are understandable excuses or at least good reasons. This is a narrow strip of land that by the 1970s was trapped between a dock road that had become a major entry into the city - so had and still has heavy traffic - and a stretch of harbour that might have been developed commercially in the 1950s or 1960s if container ships had not got so big or Køge bay was not so shallow. If you look at photographs from the mid 1950s, when the new bridge at Langebro was completed, then you can see why planners and the city thought almost anything would be better than what was here and when work started on the buildings it was well before harbour-side apartment buildings became the money earners they have become.

 

Langebro in 1956 - just after the new bridge opened - with the tower of what was then the new Europa Hotel and is now Danhostel Hotel on the city side of the bridge and with Kalvebod Brygge beyond

What is less easy to understand is more recent development behind on a second narrow strip of land that runs parallel on the other side of that dock road, between the road and the main railway line into the central station from the west.

The Tivoloi conference centre and a new hotel - Copenhagen Cabinn - should be near the top on any list of the ugliest buildings in the city and I'm not convinced that the redevelopment of the old post office site at the east end will help.

Beauty is not everything but people should want to be here and should enjoy being here. It’s not even clear these buildings even have a viable and useful future as office buildings when, post virus, large office buildings are probably what people don't need or want.

The quay itself is now part of the long and carefully-planned bike route round the harbour and the rapid development of new housing around the south harbour, further out down the harbour, is bringing more people through here on their way into the city but is that enough?  

What Kalvebod Brygge needs is a long-term development plan with strong planning controls. That's not just control over plot boundaries on land that had been bundled up in convenient lots for the highest bidder or even about controlling building use. A new inner-city IKEA store is still in the pipe line with a new bus station that seems to be oddly located and, maybe or maybe not, there will be much-needed student housing … but more important, there should have been controls over heights, sight lines, massing and connections - visually and physically - between buildings. 

Danish urban landscaping is some of the best in the World but I'm not convinced that the right planting and some good seating will pull this little lot together.

 

Generally, the tight street layout of the first stage of development in Nordhavn, now near completion, actually works. 

Somehow it seems appropriate with strong and distinct architecture and with buildings huddled together against the worst weather the sea can throw at it. Maybe that's too romantic and optimistic a description - too like the prose of a travel brochure - but there are some good buildings here including The Silo and the new metro station at Orientkaj - both by COBE who also produced the initial area plan - although I'm still not completely convinced by the shocking blue of the International School by CF Møller.

But why oh why are the new apartment buildings along Sandkaj so boring?

Sandkaj is the south facing quay, and these apartments look across Nordhavn Bassin to the UN building, so what a waste of an amazing location. It's as if a planning assistant was given a box of perfectly functional but uninspiring apartment buildings and had to put them out for the punters. This is like spreading out magazines in a dentist’s waiting room. 

It did not need much … just a bit of thought and more careful arrangement of the blocks with a bit of height somewhere and a bit of recession - so a bit of shadow - and certainly a coherent and a bolder use of colour and texture. Choosing an apartment here must be like picking out a suit on a long rail of basically identical grey suits in a department store. Here's one with two bedrooms and a balcony in pale brick or here's one with two bedrooms and a balcony in a slightly darker brick or how about this one with two bedrooms and a balcony ………….

As for Carlsberg City ..…  that is panning out to be a travesty with development at any cost with good planning sacrificed so a lost opportunity of the worst kind and the most scandalous waste of an amazing site and a waste of some of the most astonishing and quirky industrial buildings in the world. Maybe more about Carlsberg City another time. I have to worry about my blood pressure.

 

the staircase in the south range of the Arsenal

If you go out to the Arsenal to check out the new Ferm store then make sure you look at the main staircase that is just inside the entrance at the east end of the building.

This has turned balusters with closed strings and a very substantial wooden handrail and it rises from the ground floor to the first floor with a straight flight of steps but with a landing half way up.

The style suggests it should be from the original construction of the building in the 1760s although contemporary plans indicate that then the staircase was at the other end of the building - at the north-west corner - and with a different arrangement or plan that was a tight dogleg with half landings.

The range was originally part of the Arsenal where cannons were stored on the ground floor and other weapons and equipment kept on the first floor but in the 19th century the building was modified by the navy to be used as a gymnasium and the staircase may have been rebuilt or moved and reconstructed here at that stage.

What is interesting about the staircase is that, with the restoration work, the sub structure has been left exposed and this shows hefty or robust and high-quality timber framing below the staircase with heavy posts, cross beams supporting three strings below the steps and substantial cross braces. Clearly it was designed for heavy use.

Ferm has a new showroom and offices in Copenhagen

 

Ferm Living - the Danish design company founded in 2005 - has recently moved into a large showroom and with space for their offices and design studios above.

The impressive brick building with a high and steeply-pitched tile roof and the large courtyard behind have recently been restored. With a matching building to the north, now occupied by the lighting company Louis Poulsen, and two long ranges on the west side in line and looking towards the harbour and with an ornate gateway in the gap between them, this was the 18th-century Arsenal of the Danish navy. It was designed by the important and influential architect Philip de Lange and was where the guns and arms for the warships of the Danish navy were stored.

Surviving inside the high space of the showroom are the massive timber posts and braces that supported the structure of the floors and roof above.

Ferm Living are now just over the harbour from Nyhavn … 250 metres from the Christianshavn side of the inner harbour bridge.

Louis Poulsen moves to Holmen

Ferm Living
Kuglegårdsvej 1-5
1434, Copenhagen K

 

a new Natural History Museum and the Botanic Gardens

 

The Botanical gardens in Copenhagen have reopened from the lockdown and they look superb.

The gardens here were laid out in the late 19th century as part of the expansion of the city after the city gates; the ramparts, and the outer defences dating from the 17th century were removed.

This work had been discussed for some years but became a priority with an outbreak of cholera in 1853 when there was a substantial loss of life. It is not surprising that the first major new buildings that were constructed as the defences came down were a new hospital completed in 1863 and a new water works on the site of a bastion on the outer edge of the old defences and just inside the lakes at their south end. Both groups of buildings survive.

Initial plans drawn up in the 1850s showed the ramparts and outer ditches removed or levelled completely and new streets and squares as a continuous band of large new residential areas around the north and west sides of the old city that continued out as far as the lakes.

But the next priorities for the city are less obvious and more interesting. A new Observatory, the Østervold Observatory, was completed in 1861 to replace the royal observatory on the top of the Round Tower in the centre of the old city and it was built north of the King's Gardens on one of the highest points of the defences.

By then, the decision must have been made to retain sections of the outer water-filled defences below the ramparts and these stretches of water then became the centre of a series of parks that were laid out in an arc around the old city.

The park below the observatory became a new Botanical Garden that replaced gardens just south of Nyhavn and behind the palace of Charlottenborg.

A Palm House designed by Peter Christian Bønnecke for the gardens was completed in 1874 with a new Botanisk Museum by H N Fussing near the south corner of the gardens completed in 1877 and the Botanical Laboratory was completed in 1890.

On the north side of the gardens, a Technical and Engineering College was opened in 1889 and at the north-east corner and close to the National Gallery, Statens Museum for Kunst, a Museum of Mineralogy was completed in 1893.


The reopening of the Botanical Gardens at the end of May was an opportunity to see the major excavation works for a new Natural History Museum that is being built within the buildings and courtyards of the Technical College. Den Polytekniske Læreanstadt is a large and fairly severe brick building around a courtyard that was designed by Johan Daniel Herholdt with an entrance front to Solvgade and a long frontage to Øster Farimagsgade.

The new Natural History Museum has been designed by the Danish architects Lundgaard & Tranberg with a striking whale hall that will be in the courtyard of the 19th-century building and there will be new galleries and museum facilities extending back towards the Palm House but below ground with a new landscape above.

Early articles, about this new museum, have promoted this development as part of a new centre for earth sciences and it will provide an amazing, world-class centre for research and teaching.

Natural History Museum of Denmark, Botanical Gardens
the new Natural History Museum
Lundgaard & Tranberg Arkitekter

 
Botanic Garden.jpg

①   Østervold Observatory, Christian Hansen, 1861
②  Palm House, Peter Christian Bønnecke, 1872-1874
③  Botanisk Museum, HN Fussing, 1877
④  Den Polytekniske Læreanstadt / Technical and Engineering College,
Johan Daniel Herholdt, 1889
⑤   Botanical Laboratory, Gothersgade, Johan Daniel Herholdt, 1890
⑥   Mineralogisk Museum, Hans Jørgen Holm, 1893

Ⓐ  Nørreport - train station and metro station

Ⓑ  the entrance to the 17th-century palace of Rosenborg
Ⓒ  Statens Museum for Kunst / National Gallery of Art, Vilhelm Dahlerup, 1896
Ⓓ  Den Hirschsprungske Samling / the Hirschsprung Gallery, 1911
Ⓔ  the General Hospital completed in 1863 from designs by Christian Hansen

 
 

Carlsberg Byen

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I keep going back up the hill to walk around the building site that is the Carlsberg redevelopment area in the misplaced hope it will look better but each time it looks worse …. more densely built up with the industrial heritage more and more overwhelmed and over shadowed as the new tower blocks crammed onto the site rise and rise and rise.

Eventually, and maybe soon, architects and planners will begin to understand that this is one of the greatest missed opportunities in the building history of the city. Not a missed opportunity to make money of course but that is the problem.

As you walk around, then what is obvious is that accountants or the money men must have overseen or overruled every decision ……. move that block ten metres that way and make that a tower rather than a courtyard and you can squeeze another block in there.

OK, it's still a massive construction site but enough is finished that you can judge pretty well what the end result will look like.

For a start, old brewery buildings have, at best, become bit players or, at worst, they have been gutted to become frontages … a sort of inconvenient façade that has been grudgingly retained.

Or what were grand buildings that impressed because they were so big and so weird but somehow so right …. a chimney ringed by dragons, a gate tower supported on elephants … now look little and insignificant …. the amazing chimney no more than a street sculpture in a back courtyard.

The remarkable asset of the site was that rare commodity in Copenhagen ….. slopes …. because this is at least a hill even if it was never a berg.

There are odd flights of steps up but generally to courtyards raised over car parks but it could and should have been all so much more dramatic. The starting point should have been the topography and the amazing historic buildings. Instead, the starting point was the bottom line.

When Bohrs Tårn / Bohr Tower was criticised, one of the architects explained that Carlsberg Byen was to be seen as a Tuscan hill town and to judge the development on just the first of the tower blocks to be completed would be like judging San Gimignano from a single tower but I've been to San Gimignano and Carlsberg, rising up beyond Vesterbro, sure isn't a Tuscan hill town.

There are a couple of nice little squares so Jan Gehl and his team seem to have had some influence but again, it could and should have been so much better. The drama has been stripped out where there could have been a progression through a sequence of good spaces and good views through and across the site should have made use of being able to look down or look across or look up to another building and there could have been more play with scale but this is a development that has managed to make four life-sized stone elephants look small.

 

From a visit years ago, I remember a playground that was in a tree-lined hollow with an incredible suspended walkway and a car hanging in the trees and was amazed, back then, to see how imaginative planners could be and how committed they were to children not just playing but pushing boundaries. Trying to find the site now, it is a construction yard but it looks as if the coombe will be crammed into the back yard of a tower where it can only be a damp and overshadowed hollow for apartment balconies to look down on.

If you prefer a stripped-down modern Scandinavian aesthetic, then the old buildings of the brewery were difficult to like but at least you can appreciate the money that was spent on some incredible craft and building skills. And there are some more recent but imaginative buildings that play with ideas and with materials so the brick terraces of De hængende Haver / the Hanging Gardens or the golden discs of Lagerkælderen - the cellar that was not a cellar.

The new buildings are basically all concrete slab blocks of various heights and most are fairly standard with relatively standard but relatively large apartments so all that really differentiates them is the unfettered use of cladding …. anything goes as long as it's different. And the other factor you have to consider here, even if you can afford an apartment, is if you have enough money to get an apartment and a balcony that is not in shadow or overlooked. A large number of drawings in the Lokalplan with shadows from towers in different seasons and different times of day show they were concerned back then about shadows but that doesn't seem to have meant many changes.

There are some good buildings …. the apartment building by Praksis that looks over the J C Jacobsens Garden plays clever and interesting games with the brickwork and with the traditional form of a Copenhagen apartment building but this is for the Carlsberg Foundation and clearly an appropriate amount of money was invested so the consequence is a building with an appropriate quality in both its design and in its construction.

The Carlsberg redevelopment is an interesting social experiment …. with a new or, at least, a modified Copenhagen life style. How will Copenhageners cope with living so far above the streets and squares …. or are all these apartments for foreign investors and incomers?

The only saving grace is that people in this city are still incredibly respectful of their streets and public spaces … or at least if Copenhagen streets are compared with the rubbish and vandalism found in so many other densely-built and crowded cities. If the spaces around these apartment buildings become unloved and scruffy then, here on the hill, they really will have built today the ghettoes of tomorrow.

Lokalplan 432, Carlsberg II, December 2016
Carlsberg Byen

Surely, Bohr Tower, and the buildings around it, are contenders for an award as the ugliest new buildings in the city

then ……. and now

 

buildings that depend on insulation and cladding

 

a walk from Nørreport to the harbour

If visitors, new to the city, know any one street name then it’s likely to be Strøget - the Walking Street - even though Strøget is not one street but a series of old streets and squares between the square in front of the city hall and the large square of Kongens Nytorv …. a route from the site of the old west gate of the medieval city to the site of the old east gate.

So it’s an easy and popular route across the width of the old city and, because it was pedestrianised in 1962, it is a good way to get a feel for the city and it’s streets and squares.

However ….. if you are new to Copenhagen and want to get a less crowded so quieter feeling for the size of the city and of its topography and its architecture, then perhaps a better route for a first walk would be to start from the metro or suburban railway station at Nørreport - the site of the old north gate - and walk down to the harbour.

The first part of Nørregade does not look promising. It’s fairly narrow with ordinary houses and shops from the late 18th and 19th centuries. There are interesting buildings like the Folk Theatre, on this first part, pavements but street furniture does not appear to be as carefully kept as on some of the other and more popular streets. 

The first major building is the fine brick church of Sankt Petri, on the west or right side of the road. Set back in a quiet churchyard, it dates from the 16th century, but is on the site of an earlier church.

Opposite are the old buildings of the university and then the cathedral - Vor Frue Kirke.

Then, on to Gammeltorv - considered to be the oldest market square in the city - with an ornate fountain and then - crossing the line of Strøget - you drop down past the site of the medieval city hall - destroyed by a catastrophic fire in this part of the city in 1795. The outline of that old city hall is marked in the paving. 

Below is Nytorv - a relatively new square created in 1610 by clearing houses below the city hall - and the new city hall, built after the fire, was designed by C F Hansen and with it the city prison was completed in 1811 …. some of the most dramatic classical architecture in the city. 

From Nytorv it’s on down to the canal with views along the wharf of Nybrogade and Gammel Strand - approximately the line of the foreshore of the medieval settlement. 

Stormbroen is the bridge that crosses the canal from Slotsholmen. The name - The Storm Bridge - is because this was the area, at the south corner of the city, that was attacked by the Swedish army in 1659 when they nearly took Copenhagen.

From the bridge, there are the first views of the most important civic architecture on Slotsholmen - with Christiansborg - the site first of the castle of Absalon, the Bishop of Roskilde, which became a royal castle and is now the parliament building. 

To the right is a large 18th-century palace built for a Crown Prince and now the national museum and then down the canal with fine palaces and apartment buildings to the harbour and to the new Danish Architecture Centre on one side and the old brewhouse in red brick on the other - built for Christian IV in the 17th century so his navy could have a generous and certain supply of beer.

① Vor Frue Kirke, by CF Hansen, 1811-1829 - from the south
② Sankt Petri
③ Sankt Petri
④ Telefonhuset and Sankt Petri - from the north
⑤ gateway to the churchyard of Sankt Petri and Telefonhuset
⑥ Krystalgade - from Nørregade with the Round Tower
⑦ Vor Frue Kirke - the cathedral - from the north
⑧ Bispetorvet and the monument to the Danish Reformation
⑨ from north of cathedral with Gammeltorv and Nytorv beyond
⑩ looking down Gammeltorv from the north end
⑪ the Caritas Fountain on Gammeltorv installed in 1608
⑫ from Gammeltorv - looking north to the cathedral
⑬ the city hall on Nytorv, by CF Hansen, 1805-1811
⑭ the archway between the city hall and the prison by CF Hansen
⑮ Magstræde from Rådhusstræde
⑯ the canal with the houses of Nybrogade and Gammel Strand

note:
from Nørreport to the harbour is a walk of 1.35 Kilometres

Rådhuset-1479-1728-RES-1.jpg

the north front of the old city hall that was destroyed in the fire of 1795

 

this is an experiment ….
if anyone wants to follow the walk, then this image can be opened, saved as a jpg file and printed on A4 paper without margins

 
 

① the city hall by CF Hansen, on Nytorv (now court house)
② along canal to Gammel Strand and Thorvaldsens Museum
③ the houses of Nybrogade
④ Marmorbroen / Marble Bridge, by Nicolai Eigtved, 1733-1745

⑤ Christiansborg from Marmorbroen / the Marble Bridge
⑥ apartment building by H C Stilling 1850
⑦ Frederiksholms Kanal, looking south towards BLOX
⑧ Bryghus / Brewhouse built for Christian IV in 1608

 

Copenhagen lockdown

And the lockdown continues.

I was on my way to the supermarket to buy food and they were heading in the opposite direction …. while maintaining social distancing … of course.

Couldn’t not take a photo because I never go out without a camera - even in lockdown.

And before anyone asks …. yes this is the quickest and shortest route to walk to the nearest large supermarket …. for me, I mean, to walk to the nearest supermarket …. not the two soldiers. They were certainly going in the wrong direction to get to Irma.

 

Bygningspræmiering / Copenhagen Building Awards 2020

Winners of the Copenhagen Awards for Architecture for 2020 were announced on 29 April. 

These awards date from April 1902 when Copenhagen city council voted and agreed to make awards annually for "beautiful artistic designs for construction projects on the city's land."  

There had been discussions with the Association of Academic Architects about creating an award that recognised the best designs for new buildings in the city but, from the start, the city council understood the importance of the historic buildings in Copenhagen so one function of the awards was to encourage the design of new buildings of an appropriate quality to stand alongside those historic buildings. They went further and decided, from the outset, to consider awards for the restoration of existing buildings or to recognise improvements to the townscape that provided the best and most appropriate setting for those historic buildings.

Nor did the awards focus just on major and prestigious buildings but over the years they have also recognised the best private houses; new apartment buildings and commercial buildings; factories and schools in the city. 

For 2020, eight buildings or projects were nominated and of those, five have been recognised with an award and one of the five, Hotel Ottilia, was selected by public vote as an overall winner.

The Award-Winning City, Hans Helge Madsen and Otto Käszner
The Danish Architectural Press 2003


Hotel Ottilia, Bryggernes Plads, Carlsberg
Arkitema Architects and Christoffer Harlang

There are two old brewery buildings here - the malt 'magazine' by Vilhelm Dahlerup completed in 1881 and, at a right angle, a long building from 1969 by Sven Eske Kristensen called Storage Cellar 3, although it was actually a large warehouse on five levels. It is faced in brick but is perhaps best known for a series of large gold roundels or shields on the outside.

These have been retained on the east side towards a narrow lane but with new tall thin windows cut on either side. On the courtyard side, towards Bryggernes Plads, the roundels have been removed and replaced with large round windows.

The roof was rebuilt to create a new restaurant - a large glass box with extensive views over the city - although this has been done well and from the ground is not obvious as a large addition.


CPH Village, Refshalevej 161, Refshaleøen
Arcgency
landscape by Vandkunsten

Housing with accommodation for 164 students on land at the north end of the harbour that was a shipyard but this area will not be developed for around 10 years so that gives the housing a fixed but feasible life span.

There are two lines of housing … one along the wharf of a basin and the other in line behind and parallel to create a narrow street that is the main access point to the units, and provides some privacy for the residents, as the development as it is in a large and open public area. The street arrangement and also helps foster a stronger sense of community.

Former shipping containers are set as blocks of four, two on two, with narrow spaces or 'courtyards' or terraces between them and with staircases to the upper units but also providing semi-private outside space for plants or for sitting outside to overlook the street or the water.

Each container has a bedroom/sitting rooms at either end, with large windows and their own kitchen area, and with a lobby and shared shower/toilet at the centre. There is also a large community space in the development with a communal kitchen, a meeting area and a laundry.

Insulation and new facing have been applied on the outside so the interiors retain the corrugated metal of the container. The individual space is relatively small but there is a good ceiling height of 2.92 metres. All materials can be recycled but the design and finish is of a high quality so that the units could be relocated.

There is a strong sense of human scale and a strong expression of the ethics of sustainability. There is a swimming area at the inner end of the basin - so a clear and easy connection with the recreational use of the water and the Refshaleøen food market, breweries, restaurants and galleries are nearby.

CPH Village.jpeg

Klarahus Produktionskøkken, Agnes Henningsens Vej 1-3,
De Gamles By
Anders Jørgensen and Erik Arkitekter

De Gamles By is a large area of nursing homes and hospital facilities with substantial buildings in red brick that date from 1892 and onwards. It is north of the lakes in Copenhagen, with Fælledparken to the east and Nørrebro to the west.

This new building is an extension to one of the nursing homes with a new kitchen and dining room.

External walls are mainly glass so people can see in and patients can see out to help break down any sense of isolation from the community.

The striking feature is a deep band of vertical planting above the glass with a good contrast between the industrial form necessary for a working kitchen for a nursing home and natural planting for an element of texture where otherwise there would have been metal or plastic cladding. The planting resembles camouflage - in part to reduce the impact of a relatively large building but also to form an appropriate link to the gardens all round the site that are used by not only patients and staff but also by visitors and even, on sunny weekends by local people.

There are community gardens and a petting zoo just metres away and it is an important and now well-established principle for civic buildings such as schools, libraries and here a hospital to remove barriers between the facility and people living in this area.


Elefanthuset, Thit Jensens Vej 4, De Gamles By
Leth & Gori

Not far from the kitchen is a former chapel that is now an activity centre and meeting place for patients with cancer.

The exterior has been carefully restored and the interior is a mix of historic features but with a clear use of modern materials and a strong palette of colours with natural wood to create a functional and practical but warm and friendly space.

photographs of the interior from Leth and Gori


Grøndalsvængets Skole Rørsangervej 29
JJW Arkitekter

Grøndalsvångets School was designed by the architect Victor Nyebølle and dates from the 1920s.

The school is an unusually long but narrow brick building that faces south and is towards the back of a large rectangular plot that slopes up from the street to the school. The building is at the centre of a grid of streets and apartment buildings that date from the middle of the 20th century and are mostly of three or four floors. The new buildings are on either side of the plot and run down from the front of the existing school to the street to form a new, large courtyard where there had been temporary buildings and a more traditional playground. The new ranges include teaching rooms on the east side and a new gymnasium and music centre on the west side.

These new buildings have high-quality and carefully-designed brickwork with pitched roofs that run down to the main street front where there are gables and the façade sets forward and back to create a good and well-proportioned frontage on a human scale and with a good domestic or vernacular style that makes the school deliberately very much a part of the area.

 

 

note:

There is a page on the web site of Københavns Kommune - under Housing, Construction and Urban Life - about the Building Awards along with information (in Danish) about each of the buildings.

Hotel Cabinn Copenhagen

L1132276.JPG

This is the most recent hotel to open in Copenhagen and certainly the ugliest hotel in the city and no one seems quite sure how it happened …. the city council and planners have kept quiet since it emerged from behind scaffolding; the architect has disowned it and the owner has tried to claim that it is a work in progress.

I've always thought that the Tivoli Hotel and Congress Centre is one of the ugliest buildings in the city but Hotel Cabinn Copenhagen on Kalvebod Brygge has muscled in front - quite literally in front - but it hardly seems a sustainable planning policy to hide monstrous buildings by building something even more ugly in front.

Kalvebod Brygge looking towards the city
with the Tivoli Hotel behind
not the finest view in Copenhagen