Store Bededag - Great Prayer Day in Copenhagen

Tomorrow is the fourth Friday after Easter so that means it is Store Bededag or Great Prayer Day in Denmark.

Great Prayer Day fascinates me because it seems to show just how practical Danes are and even when it comes down to organising religious festivals.

By the late 17th century it seems that there was a problem because people were marking different saint days and choosing different saints to celebrate. Not quite a day off work for someone somewhere but in 1686, Christian V rolled together all the days for celebrating minor saints through the Spring into one day off and decreed that, thenceforth, there would be just a single holiday .... Great Prayer Day.

Then, last year, the Danish government down graded it as a public holiday so tomorrow, for the first year since 1686, Danes will not take the day off from work or, rather, not take the day off and still be paid.

The reason? The state has to pay for increased expenditure on defence and, apparently, everyone working through what should otherwise have been a public holiday helps.

With many events through the year in Denmark, there are distinct foods linked to specific celebrations …. fastelavnsboller for Lent or goose for Mortenaften - the feast of Saint Martin in November - or the special beer on the first Friday in November for julebrygsdag or Christmas Brew Day. For Great Prayer Day it's Hveder .... wheat buns flavoured with cardamom.

The logic is impeccable. Because it was a religious festival, bakers could not work on the Friday, so they baked these yeast buns on Thursday so citizens had bread for the holiday.

The buns are light and are baked in trays and dough, formed into small balls, is set out in the tray in lines with regular spaces between. As they rise, they come up against the adjoining dough to form almost-square buns with a domed top. Edges, where they touch the next bun, remain soft while the tops brown in the oven.

Inevitably, these soft, light, rolls, with a delicate hint of cardamom, rarely last until Friday. The normal way is to eat them warm, pulled apart and spread with butter.

By tradition, church bells are rung on Thursday evening to mark the start of the religious holiday on Friday and, in Copenhagen, there is a centuries-old habit for citizens, on Thursday evening, to walk the ramparts - the high banks of the city defences - or families walk around the rampart of Katellet - the fortress at the north end of the inner city - with views from there across the city and across the harbour and the sound.

When I was at school, we had to write reviews or criticisms of books and music and works of art and the one word that was always scrubbed out with red ink, when these efforts were marked, was the word nice. I remembered that this afternoon when I walked across to buy wheat buns and I realised just how "nice" these Danish traditions are. Maybe I'm just getting old in a bad World but these days I'm really happy when anything is nice.

Hveder - wheat buns bought this afternoon from the local baker

 

‘On Copenhagen’s Vold the evening before Great Prayer Day’
painted by Andreas Herman Hunæus in 1862
Statens Museum for Kunst

 

walking on the ramparts of Kastellet

Øens Have on Refshaleøen has opened for the summer


Øens Have - the urban farm on Refshaleøen with a restaurant and space for events - has opened for the summer.

There are still rows of winter greens that have survived but the first leaves of recently-sown vegetables for the new season are coming through.

I walked past just four weeks ago and the change in the garden in that short time is amazing.

Øens Have
Refshalevej 159b
1432 Copenhagen K

Thursday 17.00 - 23.00 / Friday 11.30 - 23.00 / Saturday 11.30-23.00 / Sunday 11.30 - 21.00

 
 

Fejø Frugt - the fruit sellers from Fejø 2022

Fruit sellers from Fejø come to Nyhavn every Autumn to sell their freshly-harvested pears, apples and plums on the quayside. They also have fruit juice, plum marmelade and fruit vinegar from the island and they are more than happy to let you taste the fruit and to answer questions about their orchards and about the fruit they produce.

All the fruit is fantastic but, in particular, it’s the Clara pears that that seem to me to epitomise all that is distinct and best about Danish seasonal food They are a distinct, almost luminous green and are crisp with plenty of juice and are good as an easy snack or with cheese. I can’t remember ever seeing them in England and they are seen here in Denmark only at this time of year.

The boats and the fruit sellers are in Nyhavn from today and through to Sunday 11 September 2022.

Frugten fra Fejø

 

should restaurants be allowed to move out onto the public space of streets and squares?

During the pandemic, people could not sit inside a restaurant to eat or laws were strictly enforced that limited the number of people inside and set the distances there had to be between the tables and where and when staff and customers had to wear face masks.

One solution, that helped many restarants to at least keep some business running and some staff employed, was to move tables outside but many have been left in place, spilling over pavements and across squares.

Will this appropriation of public space become permanent?

this is Læderstræde, a busy pedestrian street, close to Højbro Plads, that is around 8 metres wide. A few small tables and chairs kept hard against the front of the restaurant is one thing but these boxes of dense shrubs and the red crowd-control ropes are a bit aggressive and lorries and cars making deliveries still have to get through

 

this is Magasin Torv close to Kongens Nytorv with Strøget - the walking street - across the far end and the busy traffic of Bremerholm forming one long side.
at one time the buildings were part of the Magasin department store so hence the name of the square.
the buildings were recently restored
in recent years, the main occupant was a large and popular florist in the taller white building and they spread over the square with cut flowers and house plants so it was a vibrant, popular and thriving public space
the tenant now is a large restaurant across the whole ground floor of all three buildings and they have colonised the space and fenced it off with large iron planters
if you try to walk across the front of the buildings then you get caught up with customers waiting for tables and with waiters cutting backwards and forwards you certainly feel as if you are intruding so most pedestrians keep to the narrow pavement against the bikes and traffic along the road
is this an aggressive colonisation of what is an important if small area of communal space?

‘TAKE THE JUMP AND LET'S DO THIS TOGETHER’

Yesterday, there was an interesting article in The Guardian about a new movement that has just been launched in Britain to encourage people to make key changes in the way that they live to help combat climate change.

"From using smartphones for longer to ending car ownership, research shows 'less stuff and more joy' is the way forward."

TAKE THE JUMP suggests six changes we can all make to the way we live - or what they call six ‘shifts’ - to protect our earth.

These are to:

  •  keep products, particularly electrical goods, for seven years or more

  • get rid of personal motor vehicles

  • eat a mostly plant-based diet and reduce food waste

  • buy only three new items of clothing each year and buy second hand and to repair rather than discard clothes

  • fly only once every three years or once every eight years if it's a long haul flight

  • move to green investments and pensions to force institutions to change "the system"

There is also the recommendation that families should move to green energy and insulate homes to help energy efficiency. Curiously, this is not one of the six shifts although, surely, this is crucial in every country in Europe if we are to meet a target to reduce energy consumption by two thirds by 2030.

The article highlights obvious problems with our current attitudes to consumption or, rather, our addiction to over consumption, in a society that replaces rather than repairs.

For an iPhone, 13% of emissions are from when it is used and 86% from production, transport and end of life processing.

Clothing and textile industries together produce more greenhouse gas than international aviation.

Transport is responsible for 25% of all greenhouse gas emissions and two-thirds of that is from the engines of road vehicles but the article also makes the important point that:

“…. although there is a lot of emphasis on the role of electric vehicles (EVs) in tackling climate change, a bigger effort needs to go towards reducing the number of cars on the road overall as a significant source of emissions is in the manufacture of vehicles – even EVs.”

The Jump campaign was co-founded by Tom Bailey and it's conclusions are based on extensive research from Leeds University, research by the C40 group of world cities and research undertaken by ARUP under Ben Smith, their director of climate change.

But, curiously, TAKE THE JUMP only goes as far as to suggest that people, for now, try these changes for a month or possibly for three months or 6 months although it concludes that everyone has to make these changes in the next ten years.

Big changes can start with small steps. 

Six promises you can make to help carbon emissions
by Matthew Taylor, The Guardian, 7 March 2022

TAKE THE JUMP

 
 
 

“Changing our behaviours around food is the most impactful of all the shifts. And it’s not just about climate change; if you look at biodiversity loss, land use change, fertilisers in the ocean creating dead zones and the massive extinction and loss of insects due to pesticides, these problems are all driven by food.”

Tom Bailey

 

update - the new Hart Bageri on Holmen

The small Hart bakery at the south end of the inner-harbour bridge has closed and their new bakery and cafe has opened slightly further out, on the other side of Papirøen, in the old timber-framed buildings of the mast sheds.

There is space for seating inside and there is a long terrace outside with seating and tables that look out towards the opera house.

Hart Bageri
Galionsvej 41,
Copenhagen DK-1437

 
 
 

this month Torvehallerne is celebrating its tenth anniversary

This month Torvehallerne - the food halls a block away from Nørreport station - celebrate their tenth anniversary.

This large public space - with a main road in and out of the city on one side, large apartment buildings on the two long sides and with an amazing public park across the the fourth side in what appears to be a steep valley - was all laid out in the late 19th century after the old defences and the old gates to the city were dismantled. The square is just beyond the site of the north gate of the city on land that was until then steeply sloping earthworks of ramparts and ditches that all had to levelled.

From 1889 onwards the square was the site of a large vegetable and fruit market, Grønttorvet, that served the rapidly growing population.

The market was moved out to Valby, to a new wholesale market, and by the 1960s the square had become a dirt-covered car park. There were occasional events here. I remember coming to a book fair on the square before the food halls appeared .... I can't remember if I bought any books but do still remember the state of my shoes covered in thick dust.

In 1997, the architect Hans Peter Hagens, wrote an article in Politiken where he proposed the construction of covered food halls on the square in the part between Vendersgade - the road across the centre of the space - and the main street, Frederiksborggade, across the short north side.

A company was established to build and run the halls but with the financial crash of 2007/2008 they were forced into bankruptcy and the project was taken over by the property company Jeudan and the food halls opened in September 2011.

 
Israels Plads 1.jpeg

The two market halls are set parallel, about 23 metres / 75ft apart with an area of open vegetable and flower market between them. The halls are 50 metres / 165ft long and 24.2 / 80ft wide and they are set back by about 26 metres from Frederiksborggade so there is space for a square at the front that is used for small stalls and for events like special food fairs or for tables and seating.

Each hall has a wide centre aisle and narrow outer aisles against the outer glazed walls and there are cross aisles forming blocks of four stalls set back to back and they face either the centre aisle and a cross aisle or the outer aisle and a cross aisle.

The construction is simple, spacious and well lit with a glazed and raised top louvre that brings light into the centre and with large window panels on the sides that slide open so space and people flow smoothly from inside to outside and back.

There are a number of reasons why the food halls have been so successful from the obvious - there is a separate entrance from and into the metro at the corner of the market - to the much more complicated and subtle. The halls are set slightly in from the side streets of Rømergade and Linnésgade so there is space for parking for unloading and space for leaving bikes on either side so separate from the main public areas. The main road across the short north side is one of the busiest routes for commuters on bikes to come into the city from the north, from Nørrebro, and, of course, to head out home from work. Many in the city buy food daily so this is a good place to stop to buy the evening meal on the way home and there are also food stalls and bars within the market which is open until late so it is a good place to stop to meet up with friends.

The trade here has attracted other food shops, bars and stores to move into premises in nearby streets and there are good popular destinations like the Botanic Gardens and the Worker's Museum so, again, that draws in a large number of people who also want good food as part of their day out.

In 2014, the other half of the public space, now known as Israels Plads, was redesigned by the Copenhagen design studio Cobe with car parking moved underground, to create a large pedestrian area with sports courts, seating areas, water features and steps down to connect it to the park so this is now one of the most popular and most used open areas in the city.

Israels Plads

Jeudan
TorvehallerneKBH

 
 

fruit from Fejø

This morning two sailing ships came into the harbour loaded with boxes of fruit from Fejø.

Each year in September, immediately after the main harvest, growers from the island bring their fruit into Copenhagen with boxes of pears, apples and plums, and with several different varieties of each, to sell from the quayside of Nyhavn.

They have docked above the bridge, just where Lille Strandstræde comes into Nyhavn, so they are close, appropriately, to the house of the 18th-century sugar merchant Ludvig Ferdinand Rømer who imported raw sugar from the West Indies to be refined in his sugar works in the yard behind the house.

The arrival of the Fejø fruit growers gives a sense of what the harbour must have been like in the 18th and 19th century when citizens would have heard rumours about which ships had returned and would have come down to see the cargo they carried.

The growers from Fejø will be selling their fruit from the quayside in Nyhavn everyday through to Sunday 12 September.

 

Censuum … a new design store on Nørre Farimagsgade

 

A new design store has opened on Nørre Farimagsgade - close to Israels Plads and the food halls of Torvehallerne but a block away towards the lakes.

It is an interesting space in what looks, from the outside, like a relatively familiar style of large Copenhagen apartment building from the late 19th century. It looks as if it will have relatively low spaces in a half basement just down from the street level that would have been either for commercial use or simply services and store rooms for the apartments above. In fact the interior is much more interesting and much more dramatic because the space that runs across the whole of the half basement was previously a printing house with large areas that were double height.

There are relatively small windows along the street frontage that are at pavement level with an entrance door, at one end of the front, with steps down into a low space that is now an area for a coffee and a food outlet but then there are steps that go on down to the rest of the space along the front that has high ceilings so there is good natural light and interesting spaces.

Here, within the retail area of about 500 square metres, there are products from 40 small independent companies who are generally at that intermediate stage between selling on line or at design fairs and markets but before they expand to open a dedicated shop of their own.

Here you can find a good range of clothing, beauty products, jewellery, linens and items for the home. In terms of style, the range of products here reminds me of what can be found in the FindersKeepers design markets. Note …. that’s praise and not veiled criticism - the FindersKeepers markets are great but are only held once or twice a year.

Censuum describe themselves as a new form of department store because they focus on products that are responsible, sustainable, and climate friendly and they work with brands who can show that they are socially conscientious.

The cafe is good, serving coffee from the specialist roaster Prolog - now in the Meatpacking District - as well as craft beers and bread from the Andersen Bakery so they are setting their level high. There are tables and chairs inside and small tables and chairs set up along the pavement. 

Censuum, Nørre Farimagsgade 47, 1364 København

 

CHART Architecture

CHART Architecture is an annual competition to design pavilions that are erected in the two courtyards of Charlottenborg and they have a major role as they are the venues for drink and food served through the four days of the CHART Art Fair.

To give focus to the initial design process, there is a theme for each year and this year it was to explore the concept of Social Architecture where spaces and objects “sets a tone and a stage for social or private engagements.”

Forty-six proposals were submitted by graduate students or newly-graduated architects, designers and artists from 28 different countries.

In the Spring five finalists were selected by an international jury that included:

Bjarke Ingels, architect and founder of BIG
the architect Shohei Shigematsu, from OMA
David Zahle, architect and partner from BIG
Sabine Marcelis, award winning designer from Holland
Simon Lamunière, director of OPEN HOUSE
Danish artist Nina Beier

CHART 2021
CHART Architecture 2021

courtyard stage by the Swedish designer Fredrik Paulsen


Situated Exteriors
by Kathrine Birkbak, Anja Fange, and Joe Mckenzie

 The architecture of Charlottenborg is echoed in wire panels.


OM
by guilt.studio
Diana Claudia Mot, Marius Mihai Ardelean, Claudia Lavinia Cimpan, and Mihkel Pajuste

 A pavilion constructed with aluminium ventilation ducts.

 


Leverage
by Rumgehør
Rasmus R.B. Maabjerg, Nikolaj Noe, and Victor Tambo

Made from dunnage bags - light inflatable bags used generally to secure and protect freight.

Winner of CHART Architecture 2021


CURTAIN CALL
by Rosita Kær, Nina Højholdt, Thomas Christensen, Sam Collins, and Lauda Vargas

The textiles are reused to create “curtain walls” that define and divide the spaces.

 

 


FIELD
by Torsten Sherwood and Benedicte Brun

 The green canopy over a long communal table is fresh bean shoots.

 

Giv os i dag vort daglige brød / Give us this day our daily bread

L1187844.JPG

Maybe it should be give us this day our daily bread and cake …. sesame seed bread and a fig snail for my lunch from Hart Bageri

As the population of Copenhagen grew rapidly, and as the city expanded In the late 19th century and in the early decades of the last century, with new areas of housing built outside the old city defences, each new neighbourhood had a new church and a new school.

But now? Now it would seem that every inner district has to have its own artisan baker.

That’s not a dig to write this off as simply the latest hipster trend but - just the opposite - because it is a serious observation about an important change that says much about day-to-day life in Copenhagen.

This is about bread baked by craftsmen and not about fashion or about food fads. It’s about expertise and about enthusiasm for good food baked by men and women who really know about bread. It’s about appreciating traditional and local and regional styles of baking and it's about bakers finding good flour from local sources and it’s all about bread that has amazing and distinct flavours.

And no, I’m not turning this into a food blog but I am trying to make an important point.

For a thousand years Copenhagen has been a city of merchants and craftsmen who have succeeded because they know exactly what they are doing and why. And yes, these new bread makers should be seen as craftsmen …. craftsmen who have skill and who understand their market and produce incredibly good food.


With the lockdown and with restrictions because of the pandemic, people now have to queue along the pavement outside shops, including the bakers, but, despite the cold weather through the Spring, the lines have been long and I've noticed - as people walk down the line or stand in line - there are nods of acknowledgement to friends and neighbours from nearby apartment buildings so it is obvious that these bakers are establishing a local customer base with strong neighbourhood loyalties.

Perhaps, the only exception is Lille Bageri out on Refshaleøen … not because they don't have loyal customers but simply because there are few houses nearby and it is a bike ride away for most of their customers. Even so, or maybe because of that, it’s a place, to meet friends and have a coffee and cakes or a good lunch … and, of course, a place to buy incredibly good bread.

Now this really is beginning to sound like a food review or an advert so I should probably point out that this blog does not have paid content …. It's written simply because of genuine appreciation for good food made by people who know what they are doing.


 Bageriet Brød, Enghave Plads 7

A bakery and cake shop and with a good general drink and deli selection opened by Kihoskh store on Sønder Boulevard.

The completion of the new metro station here a couple of years ago has transformed the square. There is good planting and welcoming seating so people meet up here and traffic - apart from bikes - no longer crosses in front of the bakery.

The photo above of the long queue waiting outside, because of the pandemic restrictions, is Bageriet Brød and it shows just how popular the bakery is. Their Instagram site shows their wide selection of cakes.

Bageriet Brød

 

Hart Bageri, Gammel Kongevej 109 and Gallionsvej 41

Richard Hart is from England but has worked as a chef and baker in California and, more recently, at Noma, here in Copenhagen.

His first bakery shop was opened on Gammel Kongevej … a main shopping street that runs out from the centre of the city to Frederiksberg. The pavement there is narrow and there is heavy traffic along the road so it is not possible to have chairs and tables outside but there are stools and counters inside where you can have a coffee and a cake.

A second bakery shop opened in Christianshavn, on Strandvej, so very close to the inner harbour bridge and with much more space there are tables and benches outside although the shop itself is relatively small so bread is sold here but not cakes.

Hart Bageri

update 15 November 2021:
Hart Brød + Bar in Christianshavn has closed and Hart Bageri moved on 13 November 2021 to a new shop on Holmen on Gallionsvej so the map above and this entry have been updated.

The new bread and cake shop on Holmen is in an old timber building that is just beyond the recently-restored Arsenal buildings and immediately before the old mast sheds.

There will be a longer post as soon as possible.

 

lille bakery, Refshalevej 213B

The bakery is in what was drawing offices of the old ship yard. It is a bit of a hike if you don’t have a bike but it is at the end of the bus route so there is really no excuse.

It’s close to Copenhagen Contemporary - the modern art gallery - and the B&W furniture market and there are tables outside so a visit to the bakery can all be part of a longer trip out to Refshaleøen.

They describe themselves as an eatery as well as a bakery so you can get good lunches here and coffee and cakes as well as the excellent bread.

lille bakery


lille bakery



Andersen & Maillard, Nørrebrogade 62 and Göteborg Plads 19 

Opened by the chef Milton Abel who worked in California and then at Noma and Amass in Copenhagen. His bakery and coffee shop on Nørrebrogade is just before the cemetery of Assistens Kirkegård - so actually not that far out of the centre of the city - and, although the road is busy, there are chairs and tables out on the pavement as well as a seating area inside.

It’s a really good coffee shop so again it is easy to get into a routine of stopping for a coffee and cake on the daily trip out to buy a loaf.

Their second shop out at Nordhavn has been packed out every time I’ve been. It’s an area of expensive new housing but there is also a large new cinema here and the very popular south-facing quay, where you can swim and sunbathe, is just a block away.

They combine a coffee roastery and bakers and they deliver. Lethal ….. but must say, I like their delivery vans.


Andersen & Maillard

 

Collective Bakery, Nørrebrogade 176

This is the same team as Coffee Collective and their first coffee shop in Jægersborggade is just a couple of blocks away from this new bakery.

Their flour is sourced in Denmark, coming from Kragegården on the island Fyn and Kornby Mølle just north of Copenhagen.

The loaf I bought to try at home was the rye bread with a heavy seed content. It’s a meal in itself but terrific with cheese and pretty good with orange marmalade for breakfast. I usually have the clementine marmalade from Irma that has a distinctly peppery edge but, never-the-less, I guess that proves to Danish friends that I’m still a bit of a food philistine.

Collective Bakery

 

note:
Just to prove that, despite getting carried away by the food, this is still a design blog ….. the building is called Zøllnerhus and is a good example of a functionalist apartment building. It was designed by Charles Schou and Erik Kragh and was completed in 1935


Galst Bageri, Per Henrik Lings Allé 10

This has to be the bakers with the most unusual location because it is tucked away between the old sports stadium in Østerbro and the national football stadium and it seems to share it’s entrance with some of the changing rooms.

The people here are incredibly friendly and helpful and they have already attracted a huge number of loyal customers so again there can be lines of people waiting outside (because of pandemic restrictions) but no one seems to mind.

The sour dough loaves seem huge but even so they get eaten at an amazing speed …. probably because again the crust has an incredible flavour.

Not as wide a selection of cakes as the other bakers but for me possibly the best cardamom buns.


Galst Bageri

 

Juno the bakery, Århusgade 48

Opened by Emil Glaser who was a chef at Noma for six years before setting up as an independent baker.

This has to be the most stylish of the bakers … not least because the interior was designed by Frama.

The shop is on a corner and the frontage is set back at 45 degrees so there is a triangular garden here with outdoor seating. It is incredibly popular and there can be long lines of people waiting, particularly at weekends, but it is clear that everyone knows that it is worth the wait.

I’m working my way through their cakes and so far have not been disappointed by anything. The cakes are baked here in the kitchen that runs back down the side street.

The bread, photographed and then sampled back at home, might look overcooked if not burnt but it had an absolutely amazing flavour. A strongly flavoured and well-cooked crust is a key quality of all these sour dough loaves.


Juno the bakery


None of this, he adds quickly, is to say that other bakery shops in the city are not good.

When I lived near Kastellet my nearest baker was Emmrys on the corner of Sankt Pauls Gade and Store Kongensgade. It is one of a chain of shops but good for bread and good for a cake for lunch or for a cake with a coffee away from the desk and with a chance to sit and read a magazine but it was also a place to stock up with muesli and good coffee beans for breakfast or with biscuits if friends were coming round to the apartment for coffee.

I've not even mentioned Lagkagehuset  - now a big player with some 114 branches - or Meyers. Both are excellent - not just for bread but for cakes.

I've also posted on this blog about Wulff & Kunstali … cafes with good bakers attached or is it bakers with good cafes attached? They also have really good bread and cakes but this post has been about small independent bakers with a single shop or, at most, have two shops.

Having said all this, my favourite bakery is still Det Rene Brød on Rosenvængets Allé in Østerbro. It's tucked away from the main street and inside it's what I would describe as comfortable rather than stylish. Parents bring their kids in here for a treat after picking them up from school and friends definitely meet up here for a coffee.

Det Rene Brød are well established - they have been in business since 1988 - although they only have four shops so I'm back to the idea that small is good and Det Rene Brød does prove that you don't have to be big to survive.

That's where we get to the bit about artisan bakers in the broader context of the economy and of planning and the role of independent bakers for a good life here in the city.

Planners and developers have to make space for this sort pf business, even in areas of new housing, and that might well mean tax incentives as well as the physical space and foresight where bakers need delivery access and need to start work very, very early.

And, with luck, where the bakers succeed then the butchers and candlestick makers might well follow.

Copenhagen specifically but also smaller cities and towns need thriving independent businesses and, in the broader context of the environment, local production and simplified delivery and distribution can have a smaller impact on the environment.

Watch people coming to these bakeries and you see that they reconnect people with food production because they make people think about how essential foods like loaves of bread are produced.

After all ….. bread is the staff of life.

And no … I’m not actually sure what that means but it sounds good.

Wulff & Kunstali

Det Rene Brød, Rosenvængets Allé in Østerbro

 

Christmas lights on the Hotel d'Angleterre

In the run up to Christmas, a key event in the city is the turning on of the light display across the front of the Hotel d' Angleterre on Kongens Nytorv. Over the years, the displays have been elaborate, often with a central tableau with giant figures from tales by Hans Christian Andersen.

When the lights are turned on for the first time, it is quite an occasion for families who, after the lights come on, can go to a Christmas market set out around the west and north side of the square as a link from the end of Strøget - The Walking Street - across the front of the hotel and on round to the end of Nyhavn where more stalls selling food and gifts and decorations continue down the quay on the north side of the harbour.

But not this year.

With the threat of infection with Coronavirus if there were to be large, tightly packed crowds, the Christmas fair has been cancelled and the lights have been toned down and with no big evening for switching on.

There are Christmas lights across the department store - Magasin du Nord - and on the front of the theatre but it will be a quieter, rather more muted Christmas in Copenhagen this year.

 

the north quay of Nyhavn looking towards Kongens Nytorv with lights but, for this year, no Christmas market

looking across the south side of Kongens Nytorv with the entrance to the theatre the department store Magasin du Nord

 

Broens Skøjtebane / Bridge Street Iceskating

 

On top of everything else, Coronavirus seems to have distorted time. Autumn seems to have come and gone with barely a trace because the ice skating rink at the south end of the inner harbour bridge - Broens Skøjtebane - has just been set up on the square between the warehouses and the canal where, until recently, people were sitting out to eat at the food market.

The city is quieter than you would expect at this time of year and many of the traditional events have been cancelled or scaled back so there will be no skating this year outside the gates to the park at Frederiksberg; there will be no Christmas markets at Højbro Plads and Kongens Nytorv; and the launch of the Tuborg Julebryg - the special Christmas Ale - so an important evening on the calendar and always on the first Friday in November - was cancelled for the first time since the tradition was established in 1981.

Broens Skøjtebane / Broens Ice Skating Rink

 

apotek 57 EATERY at Frama

Frama Studio Store in Copenhagen is in what was an old apothecary shop, in a fine 19th-century apartment building on the corner of Adelgade and Fredericiagade, across the road from a row of the Nyboder houses and close to the church of Sankt Paul.

On 1st October, alongside the store but also with it’s own entrance from the street, Frama opened Apotek 57 Eatery under the chef Chiara Barla.

There are two rooms but also tables and stools on the pavement with views across the quiet street to the famous ochre-yellow 17th and 18th-century houses of Nyboder.

Eating here is a good way to not just see but to use or try out furniture from Frama and to eat from and drink from their ceramics and glassware.

The food preparation and serving area has Frama shelving and units from the Tea Kitchen range but the revelation was to see the main table at the centre of the room - a large oak rectangle on Frama Farmhouse Trestles - with eight Chair 01 in light, dark and black-stained finish.

Somehow, for some reason, I had filed away the design of the chair in my mind as a statement piece …. as a chair to be used on its own in a hall or in a room as a desk chair … so hence as a special or statement piece of furniture.

But, of course, at the centre of most Danish homes, and at the centre of entertaining in the home, is the table where you feed family and friends and that means that the dining table and it’s chairs are important and a serious investment.

As apartments get smaller and family demographics are changing - Denmark has more single-adult households than any other European country - so I was beginning to wonder if the idea of the dining table as the centre of the home could be changing. But here, as the main feature of the Eatery, with eight chairs around the table and space for more, this is furniture that justifies and occupies the dining space.

If you are lucky enough to have a large dining room then this is a strong design but because the table top is on trestles and the chairs stack then they could take over a general or a relatively small room for an occasion but be moved back or moved out for the space to be used in other ways.

The menu and opening times for the Eatery are on the Frama site.

Nyboder

Frama Studio Store
Fredericiagade 57
1310 Copenhagen

 
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this year there will be no fruit from Fejø in Nyhavn

 

With Coronavirus still an ominous threat, more events are being postponed or cancelled.

Fruit growers from Fejø have decided to cancel their annual visit to Nyhavn which would have seen their old sailing boat set up at the quay of Nyhavn as an open-air market stall for a week in September.

Irma - part of the COOP group - has punnets of the small green pears that come from the island but somehow buying them from a supermarket is not the same …. I missed chatting to the growers and missed the chance to try different fruits and missed heading home loaded down with brown paper bags overflowing with plums and pears and apples.

Fruit from Fejø

Ildpot by Grethe Meyer from FDB Møbler

FDB Møbler have just relaunched the Ildpot range of ceramics that were first produced and sold by the company in 1976.

The designer Grethe Meyer (1918-2008) had trained at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts and graduated in 1947 - the only woman to graduate that year. She became a leading furniture and industrial designer who, from 1960, ran her own design studio.

The Ildpot or Firepot range is not made using ordinary clay but this is "cordierite ceramic, a magnesium aluminium".

That is in quotation marks because I am not a potter so I just had to copy the description from the FDB web site but I know enough to know that the "silicate" part indicates a clay body that is fired at a high temperature and is like a stoneware or even a heavyweight porcelain. The surface, although matt, is vitrified so, like glass, it will not absorb food, does not need a glaze and second firing and is tough enough for bowls and dishes and pans to be taken straight from the freezer and put in the oven and can then be taken straight from the hot oven to the table for the food to be served.

In the 1930s, Danish furniture designers were still producing large and expensive cabinets for storing a full dinner service and, in many houses, both the cabinet and its fine china would have been in the dining room. China, glassware and cutlery would have been taken from the cabinet to set the table and then returned to the cabinet after the meal and after it had been washed in the scullery or in the kitchen. In the kitchen, in any respectable house, food would have been transferred from pans and roasting tins to serving dishes for the table.

From the 1950s onwards, more and more women with families were working and, for this new age and for a very different lifestyle, the Ildpot range was designed for food that could either be prepared ahead and chilled or frozen or meals could be produced quickly after a day at work and then, after cooking, could be taken straight to the table. It was the age of casseroles and pan roasted meat and vegetables.

The Ildpot bowls and dishes have bold rims and straight sides so are simple shapes that are easy to pick up when they hot and easier to wash and the collection was designed to stack, to take up as little space as possible, and, almost certainly, that suggests it would have been kept in a cupboard in the kitchen rather than in the dining room.

Of course, this was also the period when new kitchens, even in small apartments, were designed to take a small table with compact chairs so it was a period when even middle-class families would eat in the kitchen and only used their dining room, if there was one, for weekends or for more important family meals.

It is fascinating that this oven-to-table ware is evidence for some major change in eating habits - the move from formal and traditional dishes to meals for busy families that were easy to prepare and easy to serve.

Over the forty years or more since the Ildpot range was designed, meals - the food eaten and the dishes cooked - have changed - partly with fashion; partly with more people travelling and returning home with some adventurous new ideas to try at home; partly with new ingredients with some foods available through a longer season or even year-round and with more and more people buying ready-prepared meals that are simply reheated in the oven or the microwave.

But maybe FDB have realised that there may be more changes on the way. If lockdown returns this winter; we may well have more time at home and it’s possible we will turn back to more substantial and more traditional food for comfort.

When the Ildpot ceramics came out, Søren Gericke, then a young chef, created some suitable recipes and, with this relaunch, he has produced 16 new dishes that are published on the FDB site.

His recipe for rabbit made me think about how much what we eat has changed.

When I was very small, my grandparents still had chickens in their garden, in a hen house that my grandfather built at the beginning of the war so that they had their own eggs once rationing started. One of my very earliest memories, as a toddler, was going down their garden path to reach into the nesting box to collect eggs for my breakfast.

But then, thinking back, I remember that even well after the war ended, the chickens were too valuable to eat … so we had roast beef or roast lamb or roast pork at the weekend, huge joints of meat you would think twice about buying now because they are expensive, but we had chicken for important meals at Christmas or Easter and then it was treat. How things have changed.

Also, when I was small, we had rabbit most weeks, as a mid-week supper, because it was so cheap. I had forgotten that but now can't actually remember the last time I had rabbit stew.

FDB Møbler

 
 

COBE on Frederiksberg Allé

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This new apartment building on Frederiksberg Allé - designed by COBE and built over a new metro station - sets a new standard for building in the city and deserves to win the Arne prize next year.

OK … it’s the slab and clad building method I rant about and rail against but that is when it is done badly with lazy or boring or cavalier design. This building shows exactly what can be done to produce an elegant and clever building by using the free tools any architect has of understanding and appreciating the use of proportion, logic, composition of masses, texture, colour tone and, with COBE, an astute knowledge of Copenhagen building traditions and an empathy with the city and its streetscapes.

The site is a square plot approximately 35 metres wide and 35 metres deep that was cleared for construction work on the new metro line and for an important new metro station here at the centre of the Allé. There was a large villa here that broke or weakened the street line so this project has been an opportunity to establish a clear and well defined street frontage but also with a sense of a new space created at the cross roads by stepping back to the corner in stages along both Frederiksberg Allé and on Platanvej - the side street.

Metro trains now run under the cross roads at an angle and, as the general principal for the metro is that both platforms and the ticket halls and entrance stairs all work in line with the train tracks, that set the angle of the lift tower to the platforms and dictated that the main entrance to the metro should be across the corner and not from either the main street or the side road. Of course the lifts and staircases could have been buried into the building, disguising or ignoring that diagonal angle, but that would not have been a challenge and much of the very best architecture is good because it works with and overcomes the problems of a specific site.

It is also important that the architects of the new building understand the main vocabulary or language of the buildings along the street …. that is, substantial apartment buildings of a high quality with angle turrets at road intersections and the use of decoration to indicate individuality or difference and status. Here the architects from COBE have resisted any temptation to produce a pastiche with domes or flourishes but use strong composition by building up elements to a corner tower and by doing that well they actually get away with producing a building that is much taller and much more solid than anything that might otherwise have been rejected by the planning authority. Given the importance of this historic street and given the potential criticism that could have landed on the desks of politicians from the wealthy and articulate people who live in the expensive homes in this neighbourhood, it had to be right.

The panels of pale brick have either areas of raised header bricks or raised courses of bricks for texture and plain sunk panels on some areas show that actually it does not need much projection or recession to throw a little shadow across the facade for definition. Many of the new buildings in the city are too flat - with no use of recession or projection - even by a slight amount - to give the facade some life.

Here, bricks are set horizontally, in the conventional way on walls where headers are pulled forward, producing a darker surface with the same colour of brick but set vertically and with much longer bricks than is normal on the sections of wall on the corner tower to produce a much softer tone that gives the wall a sheen that is almost like a textile. The windows have a projecting frame or simple architrave of headers and window frames are thin and set back but produce what looks almost like a graphic line to define the openings. There is a clever use of blind panels within the brick frames of the windows above the metro entrance to disguise a high lost area or service mezzanine inside. All this, and the good proportions of the whole and the parts, is an aspect of the design that any good 18th-century architect would understand and respect.

I’m still not convinced that the lack of any definition below the brick but above the wide openings at the corner does not look slightly weak. Steel and concrete can span any space like this without obvious support on the material of the wall face - structural features such as lintels or arches - but without them a wall hanging above a void looks insubstantial - as if it could all slide down - but here it does work because looking at the building, from the angle, it is rather like a chest of drawers with the drawers half pulled out and the corner lifted up. And then the glass tower of the metro lift slides forward under the whole lot like an actress taking the applause, slipping under the curtain of the proscenium arch. Prose too florid? Ok but it does reflect the drama of the building but drama done with an almost minimalist restraint. If this does not win an award for being the best new building in the city it certainly deserves an award for being the classiest.

To simplify what is a complicated plan, essentially, there are three parts to the building with that rectangular block cutting in from the corner and containing the metro station. On either side is a high open space rising through two floors, basically triangular and filling out the space of the plot on either side of that metro rectangle. On the initial plans there were small units on either side to create a food court with tables around the escalators that drop down to the metro platforms but in the end there are two larger restaurants and what is now a florist. On a mezzanine level are two small halls and facilities - the kulturhus - that can be rented for local events.

Above, and almost self contained, are 30 homes arranged in a squat L shape around an open courtyard that is a garden high above the street. From the courtyard itself there is access to six town houses each on two floors, with all but the corner house with dual aspects to the courtyard and to Frederiksberg Allé and then, piled on top, is another block pf six town houses above that and with roof terraces. On the west arm of the L there are relatively narrow studio flats, again with dual aspect but to the courtyard and to Platanvej - across the west side of the plot.

Upper levels of the housing are reached by open lift and stair towers with black metal framework and railings a little too much like cages. Lower apartments have entrance doors from the courtyard and the upper apartments from open external galleries … not the most common form of apartment building in the city where normally, in larger buildings, there will be a series of separate entrances along a front with separate staircases and lifts at each door and single apartments on either side at each level. Here, with the wide entrance to the metro across the corner and the commercial area on the ground floor, that was not an option.

On the courtyard side, the restrained style of the brickwork of the street frontages is abandoned for large panels of wood facing but with the grey brick used for a framing. Windows on the courtyard side are arranged with an unnecessary asymmetry and the staircases and balconies, with their black railings, begin to look a bit too much like an Escher drawing. What is good is that upper levels of the building not only step up to the corner so building up visually to the corner turret with its penthouse apartment, but they also step in or back at upper levels to disguise the height of the building when seen from street level and that also means that upper access galleries, from the lifts to the separate houses at the upper level, do not project but are on the roofs of deeper houses below and there are terraces or roof gardens on the set back so, for once, this is a major apartment block with no projecting balconies.

Frederiksberg mad-&kulturhus
COBE

 

Israels Plads

There has been no similar criticism of Israels Plads that, like the remodelling of the pedestrian area of Nørreport, was also designed by COBE. This is still one of the most used and most popular urban spaces in the city …. an obvious planning and design success.

Here, unlike with the paving across the square at Norreport, the hard landscaping seems to to have survived well and in part that may be because a relatively high kerb around the square, with an edge in Corten steel, discourages vehicles from driving onto the central space.

The area at the north end of the square - close to the food halls - is still incredibly popular - people buy food and drink in Torvehallerne and come across here to sit on the steps to watch what is happening on the square. The large fenced area for ball games is very well used.

The trees are growing well and, as they mature, they make an ever stronger link through to the established and dense tree planting of Ørestedsparken to the south. These trees on the square provide shade for people sitting on benches around each tree but the trunks are high enough that the branches and leaves above do not interrupt lines of sight.

This is a huge space - well over 100 metres from side to side - from building to building - and 140 metres from the park to Vendersgade - the road that separates the square from the equally large area around the two food halls.

With such a large area there is certainly space for several different events or areas of activity going on at the same time without people falling over each other or being distracted by any noise. Perhaps in this post-Coronavirus age Israels Plads should and could be used as a venue for many more events but that is up to the city council.

About the only thing I would complain about is that the fountains and water channel at the park end are rarely running but I guess parents who have had to fish out their wet toddlers would not necessarily agree.

select any image to open in slide show

 

Den Grønne Kødby / The Green Meat City

A new street kitchen has opened in Copenhagen in the Meat District west of the central railway station and just a few minutes walk from the metro station. It is in buildings at the far end of Slagtehusgade so beyond the Hvide Kødby or White Meat Market.

There are food stalls with a new micro brewery called Åben Bryg and, through the summer, other restaurants and food providers plan to open here. The market will have music in the evenings on every Thursday, Friday and Saturday with DJs and live performances.

Just to explain … the Meat Market - was built in the late 19th century and included market buildings along Halmtorvet; the large open space of Kvægtorvet - the cattle market - and Øksnehallen - a large covered hall completed in 1901 and now used for a wide variety of events.

When the markets were extended in the 1930s - with new buildings to the west across the site of what had been gas works - then the new buildings were in a distinct functionalist style in white with flat roofs and became known as the Hvide Kødby or White Meat City to distinguish it from the earlier brick buildings of what then became known as Den Brune Kødby or Brown Meat Market - so Brown, White and now Green has absolutely nothing to do with the colour of the meat.

Den Grønne Kødby, Slagtehusgade
will continue through to 29 August

 

eating inside outside - pop-up restaurant cabins from Meyers

With the whole business of lockdown and with restaurants only just being allowed to reopen … and even then only with diners outside … the Meyers restaurant at Skuespilhuset - the national theatre - have set up eight glasshouses on the board walk or terrace outside the theatre with each being large enough to take four people.

There are views across the harbour to The Opera House and,  maybe less romantic, across to the building site on Paper Island. Well less romantic unless you are civil engineers on a date.

There are another four greenhouses at the Meyers Deli on Gammel Kongevej. The setting there, on the street at the side, is not quite as scenic but never-the-less there is a good arrangement of plants to shield diners from the people walking past.

On their web site, the restaurant confess that the idea has come from Amsterdam but it seems to work well, particularly on the harbour.

The glasshouse dining spaces opened at the very end of May and tables in the greenhouses can be booked on line.

Meyers