Nørrebro ... the coolest neighbourhood

Recently, TimeOut Magazine published the results of their poll to find the 49 coolest neighbourhoods in the world.

The common criteria seemed to be that neighbourhoods have to have good food and to be fun with strong and diverse cultures but - with cities still caught up in the pandemic - there also has to be space for life outdoors and some sense of community spirit, resilience and sustainability.

Generally these neighbourhoods are fairly central, on the edge of the city centre, and distinctly urban so generally densely built, preferably with historic or re-purposed industrial buildings and with little high rise so dynamic urban areas rather than areas concocted by political committee or ‘planned’ on a drawing board and barely a developer in sight.

For most of these neighbourhoods, green space and water - rivers or lakes - are a huge plus but also life seems to spill over, into and across the streets where there is a strong sense of the local so independent shops and new and upcoming restaurants with barely a global chain in sight.

Nørrebro - the inner northern suburb in Copenhagen - slightly to my surprise - came in as the number one neighbourhood in the world. That's no disrespect to Nørrebro, but, here in Copenhagen, citizens of Vesterbro, Østerbro and Christianshavn would all challenge the decision.

But the TimeOut poll concluded that Nørrebro " is a dazzling blend of historic landmarks, ultramodern architecture and food and drink joints to make this famously gourmet city proud."

Traditionally, Nørrebro has been an area of cheaper housing and mostly housing in older apartment buildings dating from the late 19th century or the early 20th century. It attracts students and newcomers to the city looking for somewhere to live and the mixture of cultures here means that there are vibrant, cheap restaurants and diverse food shops and there are also good cinemas and theatres.

On the down side, Nørrebro has less green space than any of the other neighbourhoods of the city although that is something the planners are trying to rectify but the south edge of the area is defined by a string of lakes that once formed a part of the outer defences of the old city and the paths around the lakes are now an incredibly popular place for people to walk or run. There are popular restaurants with outdoor seating on the Nørrebro side of the lakes.

These lakes form the boundary between the inner city and Nørrebro and a wide stone bridge over the lakes, with wide pavements and ornate iron street lights, has a parapet that faces south west so this is a good and often sunny place to meet up in the late afternoon or early evening as people head in and out of the city.

Fælledparken, a huge open area with sports pitches and gardens and lakes, is immediately east of  the district but the only large, open areas of green space within the neighbourhood are a long, curved park across the north side - on the line of an old railway - and the large cemetery - Assistens Kirkegård - that is crossed by paths and avenues of trees where families come to walk and look and sit on benches in the sun to talk. A Sunday afternoon stroll in a cemetery …. you can't get much cooler than that and it is an easy, traffic-free route to Jægersborggade ... a shopping street so cool it's almost very uncool.

the TimeOut poll

1 Nørrebro, Copenhagen
2 Andersonville, Chicago
3 Jongno 3-ga, Seoul
4 Leith, Edinburgh
5 Station District, Vilnius
6 Chelsea, New York
7 XI District, Budapest
8 Ngor, Dakar
9 Sai Kung, Hong Kong
10 Richmond, Melbourne

with the stations of the metro inner circle that opened a couple of years ago - marked here - and with Nørrebro train station on the suburban rail service and frequent buses along Nørrebrogade that run out to the airport, the neighbourhood is now well served by public transport

 

Assistens Kirkegård

 
 

Nørrebro Theatre
Dronning Louises Bro - crossing the lakes - is the gateway to Nørrebro
Nørrebro library and Nørrebrohallen sports halls in converted tram sheds

Nørrebro suburban railway station
Dronning Louises Bro on a quieter day
Superkilen park - a long and narrow urban park designed after extensive discussions with local people

 

Car Free Sunday 19 September 2021


Much of the centre of the city was closed off to traffic for the Copenhagen Half Marathon in the morning and signs and bariiers and marshalls were in place so the restrictions were kept in place through the afternoon for Car Free Sunday.

All the gantries for TV cameras were still in place on Dronning Louises Bro but after the runners are passed along Nørrebro the normally busy road was converted with food stalls and play areas for children including dance lessons. DJs set up sound systems and people broght out their deck chairs or just sat on the kerb chatting to neighbours. Kids used chalks to cover the tarmac with amazing drawings.

It all showed, only too well, what we give up to cars.

 

a new library for Nørrebro

 

At the beginning of August a new public library opened in the old tram sheds in Nørrebro.

The building is set back from Nørrebrogade with a large square at the front where trams originally turned into the sheds and the original high and narrow openings towards the road have been retained but with new doors that have stylised versions of giant book cases.

Inside, the single huge space of the shed has been retained with arched openings in the brickwork along the east side towards Bragesgade kept as a strong architectural feature and to flood the space with light. The industrial roof has been kept and is now painted black.

Fittings are in pale plywood and divide up the space and there are integral breaks in the shelving with desk spaces and benches that create quiet places to work but also form views through the space.

Across the west side of the library are smaller spaces on two levels with meeting rooms above for meetings and teaching that the community can use and, like all libraries in the city, there is a play area for children to encourage even the youngest to see the library as a fun place to visit.

Further back from the road is a second huge tram shed and that was converted some years ago to a sports hall - Nørrebrohallen - and there is now a large entrance area and large cafe between the two - between the library and the sports halls - as a place where people can meet.

Running back from the road and along the west side of the buildings is the famous city park - Superkilen - with its outdoor play and sports so this area is now a major hub for the community around. It is anticipated that visitor numbers to the library could soon exceed 1,000 a day.

 

select any image to open the photographs as a slide show

sport and space consultancy KEINGART
have published a pdf file on line with
plans of the library and cafe area

 

well-known Copenhagen landmark could be under threat.

The image of a girl on a bicycle on the gable of a building in Nørrebro was painted in 1993 by the Finnish artist Seppo Mattinen who was born in 1930.

Apparently the building is now owned by a relatively new housing association and they do not have the funds to restore or maintain the painting. Unfortunately, it has been vandalised several times so keeping the painting does mean quite a substantial and ongoing financial commitment. In a prominent location just before the lakes as you head into the city, it would certainly be missed by many if it cannot be kept.

update:

latest news is a proposal to take down the painting and move it to a new site

Gable art-6.jpg